SAGINAW AND MANISTEE, BELLEMONT LINE: NORTH OF KENDRICK PEAK, PART 1

 SAGINAW AND MANISTEE, BELLEMONT LINE: NORTH OF KENDRICK PEAK, PART 1

(KENDRICK NORTH: EAST BRANCH)

COPYRIGHT, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

MAPS COURTESY OF GOOGLE MAPS (REGISTERED TRADEMARK)

This post begins a multi-part series on the Saginaw's Bellemont Line, North of Kendrick Mountain. To simplify understanding, and avoid a very long title sequence, this series will henceforth be entitled either Kendrick North: West Branch, or Kendrick North: East Branch. If you have a forest map handy, these two branches split from the main Bellemont line near North West Tank, at Cowley Park. This area is on private property, and is beginning to be built up. Some of the lines in this area can  be seen from the road or accessed by forest roads. 

The west branch generally follows a northerly heading, passing along the base of the peak, past Crater Spring Tank and Crater Lake. The line becomes FR760, looping to the West of Horseshoe Hill, then intersects with FR191C (which is accessible from Highway 180.) FR 760 continues North, intersecting with FR90. More on this area on a later part of this series. 

The east  branch is a bit more challenging to find. The line at Cowley Park is difficult to follow, due to private property and closed roads. At Mudersbach Intersection, the line continues north-easterly along remote roads, eventually intersecting Highway 180 at FR191C. It then continues north along FR9007, until ending somewhere in the wilds of Arizona. This branch includes the Kendrick Park spur, the Curley Seep Tank spur, and others on the east side of Highway 180. Prior blog posts describe this area in more detail. 

There is a branch spur that passes through Curley Seep, on a northerly direction. A forest road covers sections of the roadbed and may be closed to motorized vehicles. I chose to park at the tank and walk the spur. I came out into the forest to get exercise and do research, not sit in the convenience of a vehicle. We should reconsider driving about in a quad vehicle, and rely more on walking in the wilderness. Coordinates given are for reference only, and should be varified by anyone accessing this area. 

This map provides an overview of the three spurs or lines that will be covered in this series. The area is relatively vast, covering many acres. The roads are rough, and not soon to be repaired so be prepared; drive a 4x4. Bring adequate water and supplies- I cannot emphasize this enough. 

The spur or line that is the topic of Parts 1 and 2. Part 1 will bring us from Curley Seep Tank to where the spur intersects with FR9002F. 

Curley Seep Tank, looking Northeast towards Highway 180. There is no direct access from the highway to the tank, and DO NOT park on the highway and hop the fence. You can  cause an accident or be towed. The cut in the tank berm for the logging spur can be seen on the left of the picture. 

A post in the ground helps to locate the general location of the spur/road.

Looking back towards the tank, the grade on the right of the image.

Decaying log and stump left by the early loggers.

The roadbed makes several turns. Just stay with the road, until you notice a rock fill ramp.

The ramp slops down. Just at the bottom you will see the grade turn to the left, leaving the road. 

A berm will be noticable, where the grade was built up to cross a small creek (35.46013 N, 111.78803W.)

The raised area has several noticable features, including rock fill and an occasional tie. 

Crossing the fill, the grade will continue until it enters an open park-like area.

The area is rather scenic, so stop and enjoy the view. 

Looking towards the Kachina and San Francisco Peaks.

The line will cross an open area, so keep a eye out for the grade. It is almost invisible at this point. 

At the point where the grade intersects FR9002F (35.45768 N, 111.79329 W.)

Part Two continues from this point. This road is accessible from the North. South of this point it is basically a quad road, or a very small 4x4.

Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Company: Equine Care; Horseshoes and Related Topics (10/25)

 Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Company: Equine Care; Horseshoes and Related Topics

I recently found a horseshoe artifact north of Kendrick Peak. Prior to 1929, the Saginaw maintained a large herd of horses for use in harvesting timber. These animals were employed in hauling logs, transporting supplies within the camps, and other assignments. 

Without the horse, there would be only limited logging or transportation, and civilization would have matured at a much slower rate. The horse was the foundation of transportation for thousands of years, for without the horse there would be no wagons, only hand carts powered by the underclass of humanity. 

Disregarding the usual ramblings and philosophical comments, I would like to use this post as an opportunity to explore the horse as an "employee" of the so-named company. Designating the animal as such, was the Saginaw a good employer? Were they taken care of in a humane way, or used to exhaustion and discarded as any spent piece of machinery? Often historical research focuses on the obvious, such as the location of sites, the number of rail miles, or the steam locomotives (which, by the way, is often referred to as the "Iron Horse.") Real horse flesh and the sweat of humanity were invested in the prosperity of the company. It is hoped that this will help the reader better appreciate the horse, and the role it played in harvesting the timber stands of the North Country. 

The area north of Kendrick Peak was extensively harvested by the Saginaw, more so than most of the historians realize. The logging lines that were laid across this landscape were part of the Bellemont Line, one of many company branch lines. Although the various spurs were not always contemporary in operation, The cumulative effect were some half-dozen temporary camps of various sizes and purpose, spread across the landscape, from the foothills of the mountain to Kendrick Park and all points north, east, and south. Only the formidable mountain ridges precluded further expansion west. While the timber stands lasted, his vast operation resulted in sending a continuous stream of pine logs to the mill, located in Williams, Arizona. 

  

Spotted beneath the pine needles was an artifact. 

What a find! A horseshoe used by the logging teams. This was a massive animal, as the water bottle attests to the size of the shoe. 

A closer view of the reverse side. The nails are square cut, common for horse shoeing. This image indicates that the cleats provided added traction. 

Somewhat of size comparison. Not having a tape measure handy, the old man hand must do. After documenting and studying, the artifact was once again returned to the earth, covered and hidden from sight. If this had been removed, the opportunity to date and understand the area would have been hindered. The finding of the horseshoe indicates that the surrounding historical sites related to the logging operations date before 1929, when mechanized logging replaced the horse teams. 

Found near where the shoe was located, was a small rock dam, which created a pool of water. This simple structure could well have been made by the teamsters to provide refreshment for the horses, when they paused for a moment of rest while working. Small and seemingly insignificant finds like this bring forth an understanding of how much these animals were respected and cared for. 

For comparison, the following image is from the Barney Flats area. 

Horseshoe with cleats. Artifact was left in situ for future generations. The cleats provided additional traction for snow or muddy conditions and could be helpful on hillsides. Located on a slope, just above Barney Flats. This provides further evidence of the consideration for the animals and their needs in varying working conditions. 

"Hauling Logs on Big Wheel. Flagstaff, Arizona. Published by Marlar Drug Company. The Albertype Company, Brooklyn NY."

This is a typical representation of the Big Wheel logging cart/wagons used in the area until about 1920. This example has seen better days, as a number of items are missing from the wagon. The horses do reflect the high level of care that was provided by the owners. This image appears to be a well-staged example of what it was like to haul logs from the woods. 

CAMP LIFE FOR THE HORSES

The logging camps, such as Camp 20 were located some 12 miles northeast from Bellemont, and camp 21 was near Fort Valley (LUMBERJACK, page 1.) According to the LUMBERJACK (Volume 1, #8, December 1923, pages 6,7) Camps 21 and 22 were the most up to date:

"...This consists of men shacks, substantially built, with ample comfortable accommodation for two men and horse barns with capacity enough to stable two horses. These shacks and barns are portable so that when camp is struck, they are picked up by the loaders, placed on log cars and moved to the next location...in one day. The blacksmith shops are made on the same plan but in two sections and the hay roofs are also portable..." 

  Horses were ascribed as being "...Magnificent specimens of horse flesh...Eighty in number, there are no finer animals in the country. Their ages range from five to seven years and their average weight...eighteen hundred pounds (page 7.)" Judging from context of the article, the men took great pride in their horse teams. These faithful steeds were well-groomed, fed a healthy diet, and given adequate shelter from the elements. The Company provided portable horse barns, hayracks for ample feed, and a blacksmith to ensure the health and well-being of the animals. At eighteen hundred pounds, they demanded respect! At the end of the season, the horses were provided a well-earned vacation, having been moved to the warm climate near Glendale, Arizona, or the Salt River Valley area. The call to return the horses to the logging camps was a noteworthy event, for this meant that logging would once again begin: "A finer bunch of horses never passed through Williams" (Williams News, May 4 & 11, 1912.)    

Such comments reflect the company's attitude to the horse; not only were they prized, but in many ways cared for and treated equally as the human component. Although some form of healthcare may have been provided for an injured worker, the horse was privileged to have the blacksmith on site in the remote camps. All of their needs, including the humble but necessary iron shoe, were provided as close to the work area as possible. The tack could be repaired or replaced in camp, or with a train ride away new items could be sent via the commissary cars. Shelter and hay racks were just as important as the two-man shack and dining hall. 

 At the small yet neatly organized museum, located in the Visitor's Center in Williams, a panorama photograph is proudly displayed. This image shows the woods crew near camp, somewhere (author's thought the Kendrick Mountain area) on the Saginaw lines. Proudly displayed are a number of horse teams with their handlers, all in fine fit with splendid stature. The horse teams appear to be assigned, or owned, by the same teamsters. This resulted in a tight bond and trust between the two species. 

SAGINAW AND MANISTEE, NORTH CHALLENDER LINE; ARTIFACTS ALONG THE LINE

 SAGINAW AND MANISTEE, NORTH CHALLENDER LINE; ARTIFACTS ALONG THE LINE

Having mapped and compiled the locations of the Saginaw logging lines, it is always interesting to return and see what new items of interest I can find. The record snow fall has melted in the lower elevations, and early spring rains have washed away 100 years of soil, revealing artifacts from ages gone by. What items I find will be photographed, and safely placed in the area where they were slumbering. 

One area that I frequently pass-by had a spur from the mainline; this has been difficult to locate with any accuracy. After the passage of over one-hundred years, most of the former roadbeds are covered by varying amounts of forest debris, usually a few inches to several feet in depth. The thousand-year storm which passed through the area a number of years ago also contributed to burying the remnants. On a recent visit the contours of the roadbed, coupled by exposed relics, have begun to unlock the secrets of this location.

The spur connected to the main North Chalender Line, forming what appears to be a long siding, before continuing on a meandering path through the forest. At or near this location where the two lines met, the two artifacts (pictured above) were found. The item on the left was a large part, machined and forged to be a piece of rolling stock, or a steam locomotive. More on this item later. 

The item on the right was just as intriguing as its partner. Both were found next to each other, and by their location indicated where the turnout was placed on the main line. It was important that, after the images were taken, they were again safely placed where they were found. 

This piece was rare, not fractured or damaged. A number of similar pieces have been found at or near where spurs connected with the main line. This would indicate that they were somehow associated with the turnout. Having only located broken pieces, it was first assumed to be part of the switch stand. The three holes were square in shape and indicated where the part was spiked to a tie. A very curious piece of hardware, but what was it used for?

The artifact on profile. The metalwork required some degree of sophisticated forming and shaping, either by a forge or at the hand of a skilled craftsman. To save time and labor, the metal would have been formed on a mold, then cut to shape. 

Armed with this information and images collected in the field, it was time to do an internet search of turnouts used in the early 1900s. One of the most common was the stub-end switch, controlled by a switch stand, commonly a harp stand. After investigating a number of images and diagrams, I came to the conclusion that this was a common piece of trackwork used in a turnout. Note the curved end, the contour of which is a mirror image of the profile of a rail. This piece was spiked on the tie, supporting and holding the rail, thus reducing the tendency of the rail to roll-over. 

Something simple as this provided me hours of research; who said industrial archeology was boring?

The second artifact provided its' own adventure. This piece was more complex in design, having curves and flat surfaces, grooves and bolt holes. It was becoming obvious that this was from a piece of rolling stock, or a locomotive. The groove and curved surfaces provided two clues, and the assumption was that this was a part of the brake rigging, possibly a shoe hanger. Having two bolt holes was a bit of a mystery, as most brake rigging was hung freely inside the frame of a four-wheeled, two-axle truck. 

You can see the distinctive line where two molds fitted together, so that the piece could be formed from molten iron poured into the mold. Casting meant that this was not a one-off piece, but one that necessitated replication. Evidently, it would require replacing at regular intervals, or was something that was subject to abuse and wear. 

The next stop in my research project was to visit the Grand Canyon Railway Station complex, located in Williams, Arizona. The complex has a number of steam locomotives on display, and several pieces of rolling stock such as a caboose and passenger car. One such display item that has proved useful in the past, is the large Shay locomotive. Shays were a patented design, with the unique qualities of a geared drive train to each of the axles, powered by several vertical cylinders. The Shay design remained basically the same throughout the production history, with occasional changes due to varying sizes or a more efficient part design. If you purchased an early version, or a later version, the basic design was the same due to the patent rights (when the patent rights expired, another shay design was built by the Willamette Iron Works in Portland, Oregon. This was commonly called "The Willamette." I digress, but it is an interesting study by itself.) All of this is to say that if you wanted a bigger Shay, they just made a bigger part. A simplistic, but reasonably accurate concept. 

This first image is part of the rear truck brake assembly. The curvature is similar, but the shoe holder is designed to slide onto a metal bar, not bolt. 

  

Another image of the rear truck brake assembly. You can just see how the brake shoe fits into the holder, and a metal pin slides into the grooved parts, holding it in place (okay, not the best description, but you just have to come to Williams to see it. Maybe someday I will do an engineering diagram, but don't wait on it...)

The following three images show the front brake assembly, the shoe hangar and the brake shoe. Instead of sliding onto the brake beam, this assembly bolts onto the piece. The hangar is in two pieces; our artifact would be in the lower location, holding the shoe. You can decide for yourself, but it appears that this relic from the past is from the brake rigging of a steam locomotive, and not having a rod driven steam engine for comparison, could very well be from a Shay. 

I can only imagine that the engine rolled off of the rail and impacted the ground in such a way that this part fractured. This was not uncommon in the woods. For the crew, Shays were very robust, and they often carried additional parts on the engine. They removed the part, replaced it, then continued on their way. Such was their daily life on a logging railroad, one-hundred years ago.

For comparison, the following images detail the brake shoe rigging on a caboose, on display at the Grand Canyon Railway Station, Williams, Arizona.

A two axled, four-wheel caboose truck. 

Two close-up views of the brake shoe and hangar. Note that there are significant differences to the overall design, when compared to the artifact. This provides additional support to the conclusion that the artifact is off of a steam locomotive, more than likely an early version of the Shay locomotive.

FORT MOHAVE, ARIZONA AREA: MOHAVE AND MILL CITY RAILROAD

 MOHAVE AND MILL CITY RAILROAD

First, there was COVID; now, incessant snow and rainfall. All of this has kept me from enjoying my backyard, otherwise known as the Kaibab National Forest. Since the beginning of this year, the Kaibab Plateau has experienced 15 feet of snowfall; normal is 5 feet. This is just the natural cycle returning, where once every five years we have a blockbuster winter. 

Not one to just sit in the house and age not-so-gracefully, I have been exploring historical sites near the Colorado River. There are a number of unique and relatively unknown sites, from Needles, California to Las Vegas, Nevada. Some of these locations are a short drive from the main highway, others are a number of miles. 

A word of caution must be said regarding travel in the desert. Choose your season wisely; warmer months bring intense heat, cooler months below freezing temperatures. At any time or season, rain and flash floods are a real danger. Most of the desert is dry and arid, covered in scrub brush and various sized rocks. Majestic in its' stark beauty, the landscape is scarred by seasonal river and creek beds coalescing into wide flood plains. When dry, the ground becomes soft from the sandy soil and when wet, becomes a quagmire. Flashfloods are sudden, fast and potentially deadly. Do not cross or meander on a dry stream bed when the threat of thunder warns of impending rain. Dry sandy soil may strand your vehicle; a flash flood will sweep you away in a matter of moments. 

For you desert dwellers, the following may be taken as fact, but you are well aware of how many people are wandering the desert back roads without even an hours' worth of water. Always be prepared with adequate clothing for the season, and a supply of food and water in your vehicle. Don't drive a road that looks unsafe to you or is beyond your skill to travel. I am used to the forest and all its dangers, but the desert is far deadlier and will kill you faster.

Having given clear warning and wise advice, I present an interesting area to visit. I would use a good map, then research and document the area you are going to visit. Access to the area is limited, crisscrossed with trails, river channels, steep grades and extremely rough roads. Not to mention the tire sucking sand traps. Four-wheel drive is a must, not an option. You can get lost, even if it is only a few miles from the agricultural area of Mohave Valley.

FORT MOHAVE, ARIZONA AREA: MOHAVE AND MILL CITY RAILROAD

Courtesy Google Maps

East of Fort Mohave is the abandoned mill and townsite of Mill City (back when I was young, Mohave was spelled with a J: Mojave. Times have changed.)  

I accessed the area by turning East off of Highway 95, unto Road 351 (Willow Road) at the Spirit Mountain Casino. I followed the road until it turned to gravel and dirt, then crossed over the irrigation ditch. There is a poorly marked road that turns to the left, which is the way to the area. You will pass an open-air target practice area, with abandoned and stripped cars. There are a number of side trails, one of which follows the creek bed, and another takes you to higher ground. You will need to decide which way to proceed, and why you need to have a good map and a navigation instrument.

 AVOID THE AREA if there is the slightest hint of rain in the mountains or over your location. Flash floods kill. (I can imagine the conversation to your significant other, "Let's go to this remote and isolated old mill site in the desert." After the trip, don't wonder why the front door slams and you find yourself alone. Maybe go to the casino instead?)

Looking east towards Oatman area. Note the rugged landscape, and deep ravines. 

Looking West from the mill site. Mohave Valley is in the distance. This gives you an idea as to how rugged the area is and provides an indication of the number of diverging trails. This area seems to be used as an offroad vehicle playground. 

                        

Spring flowers were in bloom. Don't forget to enjoy the little things in life. 

The Mill site area, located on a bench above the creek. You will have to drive up a steep incline to reach the area. Ample parking. Or, if you found the road that takes you to the top of the ridge above the site, you can walk down to this location. 

Another view of the foundation piers and retaining wall that were built for the ore bin and mill structure.

 Mill Town was aptly named; this complex would have required a number of workers to operate the machinery that processed the ore. There are indications that dwellings and structures once dotted the area. 

On the ridge above the complex, the railroad grade was laid on a raised embankment. From this point, there must have been a trestle, so that the ore cars could dump their cargo into the bunker at the mill. A water pipeline was buried next to the grade, and then continued for some distance further along the ridge.

A unique feature was the large concrete holding basin that was built on top of the ridge above the mill. A pipeline was laid underground to the mill complex. This was to provide water for the workers and the mill operations. What is unique is the amount of labor that went into building an open-air collection pool, that certainly would have had problems with evaporation in a desert climate. 

Standing on the edge of the cistern, looking west.

 

Farther east, within sight of the cistern, 

the railroad grade crosses the road. A sign commemorates the spot.

 

According to the sign, the Mohave and Milltown Railroads (?) extended from this point some seventeen miles to the Oatman, Arizona area. A spur or branch continued to the Fort Mohave and Colorado River area, only a few miles distant from this point. Transporting the raw ore from the mines to the river by wagon was proving to be a costly venture. The ore still needed to travel by steamboat to a smelter where the gold or silver was extracted.

The purpose of the railroad was to transport the ore, other than by wagon, to the mill that concentrated the valuable minerals. The concentrate could then be transported by wagon or possibly by rail to the Colorado River. 

All of this seemed a sound and astute business decision, and thus was born out in 1902. However, the oftentimes cruel desert environment had other plans. The railroad operated for a year and was suddenly washed away by flash floods cascading down the stream beds that the grade had crossed. If they only had a satellite view of the terrain, they would have seen that the entire area is one vast seasonal flood plain. One source indicates that over a million dollars were invested in the project, that operated only a year. 

Wagons once again plodded from the mines to the river. Hopeful if not wishful thinking kept the vision of a railroad alive, but eventually the line was completely abandoned in 1913. Much of the history of this venture is lost to time, yet it is possible to speculate that the mill complex was used to concentrate the ore after the railroad was washed away. Then again, memories fade and time passes on under the sun and heat of the desert sky.

The marker area looking West. The grade was on a fill, and once crossed a trestle at this location. 

The grade as it continues on to Oatman.

                                                  

Objects that attest that iron horses once trod the rails. 

 Please leave in place for future visitors.

A section of the grade, as it continues towards Oatman area.

Along the Oatman Highway, there is another section of the grade designated a trailhead. You can walk the grade, although it is deteriorated. It is not an easy hike and should not be ventured alone. Ample water is a necessity.

RECENT FINDINGS: LOGGING CAMP IN THE WOODS

 RECENT FINDINGS: LOGGING CAMP IN THE WOODS

As per my customary behavior, I will not divulge the location as to where the camp is located. Having been to this site a number of times, it is becoming clear that this was once a headquarters-type camp. This was established at the time when the camps were mostly rail-borne (pre-1920s), with the kitchen and various other functions remaining in converted boxcars. This does not mean structures were not placed at or near the camp area. On the contrary, most contemporary images and historical research indicates that tent-based housing could be set up anywhere in the vicinity of the main camp. When it comes to a place to call home, the need for some distance and seclusion from others seems to be a genetic desire of the human species. 

Such a rail borne camp (as I would call it) would require several temporary spurs and sidings along the mainline, so that the camp cars can be placed and after the timber is cut, readily moved to another site. A headquarters camp differs, in that the functions usually remained in place until the entire line is logged out. This included spurs to place the cars; the camp remains stationary until the line was shut down. 

This site is located near the main line, with a spur next to the main track. Oddly enough, the main camp site is located several hundred feet from the spur. 

On a recent visit, I found a number of artifacts that had been placed in a central location, meaning someone had probably been metal detecting, and after "oohing and ahhing" over their finds, left them at or near where they had been resting for the last hundred or so years. At least they were left in the general vicinity and not squirreled away in someone's garage. They remain and will continue to help tell the story of this interesting site. As a personal note, I have nothing against metal detecting, owning one myself. Just follow the rules and enjoy the great outdoors. And please leave it where you find it...  

This is a flange plate, once connected to a larger cast iron piece. On close inspection, it does not appear to be a from a water line pipe. Instead, due to its construction and the number of holes for bolts, it appears to be from a geared locomotive. 

A number of artifacts indicate something was going on at this site. The image on the left show's parts of brake rigging, chain links (common in logging camps), and several other odd items. The right image is a thick plate and old spoon, common in camp dining rooms. Logging camp cooks and kitchens were an important part of the operation. Good food fueled good results; happy loggers cut more trees. Dining facilities were often provided with quality plates and dinner ware. At this site has been found simple tin stamped spoons with ornate handles, and the heavier better-quality spoons seen in the picture. 

The artifacts in this image are from freight cars: a broken link used for couplers; a piece that could be a door catch or slide; a possible pipe clamp, and additional parts.

A severely broken section of rail, showing extreme wear and metal fatigue. This is a hundred feet from the spur. A spike was also found nearby. How did these items get so far away from the main line?

The following images are from the Shay locomotive on display at the Williams Depot complex:

Note the various clamps, and rod assemblies. 

A hose clamp on the shay. These pictures can give some idea as to where the artifacts may have come from. Some of them are related to freight cars common to that era.

 

Some initial conclusions can be drawn from the artifacts. The camp cars were placed at the location where the artifacts were found. In order to do so, temporary tracks were laid, and could have been pulled up, then re-laid when the cars were removed after logging was completed. The loggers did not use ballasting on the track, unless absolutely necessary, as everything was considered temporary. This would explain why no soil disturbance exists in the area.

Judging by the artifacts, there was a servicing area and shop site for the repair of equipment, and to maintain the woods engine. This also indicates that the woods engine remained at the camp, when not otherwise busy. The kitchen car and dining area was located nearby.

All of this stresses the importance of leaving artifacts in the area where they are found. Without them none of this could be interpreted today.